The invitation for the Marine Serre show came with a nylon foldable shopping bag in her signature crescent moon motif.
For her return to the Paris Fashion Week women’s calendar, the designer took over Ground Control, a former mail sorting center turned covered market that is home to a vibrant mix of stalls and street food stands.
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There was a Marine Records store, a florist and a pizza stand, and some guests sat at round tables where waiters served tea and coffee in vintage cups rebranded with a black crescent.
“I really tried to find a place in Paris where you can still feel that sense of connection,” she explained backstage. Serre continued her tradition of opening her show to the public, raffling off 200 invites, and held an open casting call on Instagram that drew 3,000 applications.
Street-cast models rubbed shoulders with veterans including Guinevere van Seenus, Kristina de Coninck and Marie-Sophie Wilson, as well as Kate Moss look-alike Denise Ohnona.
The newbies broke into grins as they snaked their way through the venue in street-friendly looks including printed bodysuits and jeans, airbrushed or embossed leather jackets and Serre’s first track suit, which was dressed up with pointy python-print boots.
Previously reluctant to capitalize on her immensely popular logo, Serre plastered it on everything from a baby carrier to a shopping trolley, a pizza carton and a water bottle. And why not? It opened the door to collaborations and pop-up activations when the collection hits stores.
She’s also fleshing out her collection with office-friendly attire, so there were classic black suits in diamond-patterned jacquard and colorful twin sets, shown on a pair of actual twins.
Many looks were designed to go from day to evening, like a ruched red moiré dress with matching bomber jacket, and a stretchy dress in panels of white lace and animal print jersey. The model wore cat-eye shades and carried a baguette. “You can be chic to go and buy your bread. I really like that idea,” the designer said.
Asked if she was prepared for guests to steal a souvenir coffee cup, Serre smiled: “I kind of figured you might. As long as you don’t take the chairs, it’s fine.”
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Launch Gallery: Marine Serre Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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